Putting a caravan away for winter is one of those jobs people either do properly or regret. A few hours of preparation in March or April can save you a lot of trouble, and money, when you pull it out again in spring.
This guide covers what to do before you store your caravan, what storage conditions to look for, and why the choice of storage space matters more than most people realise.
Why winterizing matters
In Australia, "winter" means different things in different places.
In Tasmania, Victoria, and parts of NSW, you're dealing with genuine cold, frost, and persistent damp. That combination is hard on caravans, water ingress, mould, battery drain, and freeze damage can all develop over a few months of neglect.
Even in QLD and WA, where winters are mild, a caravan sitting idle for three to six months without preparation is a breeding ground for mildew, rodents, and rubber degradation.
The cost of getting this right is a few hours of your time and maybe $50–$100 in supplies. The cost of getting it wrong can be thousands.
Caravan winterization checklist
Work through these before you put the van away.
1. Clean the van thoroughly
Inside and out. Any food residue, moisture, or organic matter left inside will attract pests and develop mould.
- Remove all food, condiments, and perishables
- Wipe down all surfaces including inside cupboards
- Clean the fridge and leave the door ajar
- Vacuum floors and soft furnishings
- Wash the exterior and dry completely before storage
2. Check for water ingress
Go over every seal before storage, roof vents, windows, door seals, and any joins where the roof meets the walls.
If water gets in over winter, you'll find mould and potentially softening of interior wall panels by spring. Silicone sealant and Dicor lap sealant are inexpensive fixes if you catch problems early.
3. Flush and protect the water system
If you're in a frost-prone region:
- Drain the fresh water tank completely
- Drain the hot water system
- Open all taps to clear residual water
- Blow through the lines if you have a compressor
Even in warmer areas, draining tanks prevents stagnant water issues and takes the load off pump seals.
4. Disconnect and maintain the battery
A 12V battery left connected over winter will drain through the caravan's standby draws, clocks, detectors, fridge settings. Over several months, this can damage the battery permanently.
Options:
- Disconnect the battery terminals
- Remove the battery and store it indoors connected to a trickle charger
- Install a solar trickle charger if leaving the battery in the van
Most caravan batteries have a 3–5 year life span. Deep discharge over winter shortens that significantly.
5. Check the tyres
Tyres can flat-spot if left stationary on hard surfaces for extended periods. For longer storage periods:
- Check tyre pressure and inflate to the correct PSI
- Move the caravan slightly every month if possible, or place chocks to redistribute load
- Use UV-protective covers on tyres if storing in direct sunlight
6. Gas safety
For gas cylinders stored over winter:
- Turn off the gas at the cylinder valve
- Check hose connections for cracks or wear before storage
- Store cylinders upright in a ventilated area
Australian standards recommend not storing LPG cylinders in enclosed spaces.
7. Protect the interior from humidity
Even with the best preparation, condensation happens in enclosed spaces over winter.
- Place moisture-absorbing products (DampRid or similar) inside
- Leave internal vents slightly open to allow minimal airflow
- Use a good-quality fitted cover if outdoors
8. Check the cover or awning
Awnings left extended over winter are vulnerable to wind damage. Retract all awnings fully.
If you use a fitted caravan cover:
- Make sure it's fully dry before fitting, trapping moisture under a cover is counterproductive
- Check that the cover doesn't flap in wind and cause abrasion on the van's surface
What to look for in winter storage
Where you store the van affects how much prep work you need to do, and how the van will be when you retrieve it.
Covered vs uncovered
Covered or enclosed storage, a shed, carport, or purpose-built facility, protects from UV, rain, and wind. This reduces wear on covers, paint, rubber seals, and the overall exterior.
Uncovered storage is fine if:
- You have a quality fitted cover
- The space is well-drained (no pooling water underneath)
- You're in a dry climate
Surface quality
The caravan should sit on a firm, stable surface. Soft or waterlogged ground can cause the van to list or sink over winter, particularly if the ground freezes and thaws.
Concrete or compacted gravel hardstand is ideal.
Drainage
Standing water under or around a stored caravan creates humidity that works its way into the van. Look for a storage space that drains well and doesn't flood.
Access
You may want to check on the van during winter, especially if there's been a storm or strong wind event. Make sure access is possible without a lot of advance planning.
How much does winter storage cost?
Caravan storage costs vary by location and storage type. As a general guide:
| Storage type | Monthly cost |
|---|---|
| Open private yard (P2P) | $80–$150 |
| Covered private shed or carport | $130–$250 |
| Commercial outdoor compound | $150–$300 |
| Indoor commercial storage | $250–$400 |
For a full breakdown of caravan storage costs, see our caravan storage cost guide.
Finding storage before the rush
If you're in Victoria, NSW, or SA and plan to store over the May–August period, start looking in March or April. Good private yard spots near populated suburbs fill up fast as the autumn weather turns.
StorageFinder lists private storage across Australia. Most hosts offer month-to-month arrangements with no long contracts, which suits people who want to retrieve the van when the weather improves, not on a fixed date.
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